Nissan 100NX

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Description: Welcome to my guide for the Great little T-Top that is the Nissan 100NX I will list some common problems that you may encounter as a 100nx owner . 1 . RUST ! ~ like many japanese cars rust is a killer...

like many japanese cars rust is a killer. check the rear arches. and if you can get the whole underside Waxoiled.

unlike most cars. the 100nx has a timing chain instead of a timing belt. this chain is made to last approx 100,000 miles. so check before you buy as it may need adjusted or worse replaced.

The CV joints. Distributor. rear boot struts. and general electrical system are all points to look at as they commonly fail. BUT other models in the Nissan range share parts ( Nissan sunny. sunny GT. bluebird. primera. etc etc )

The 2litre version (aka NX2000 or GTi) has an air scoop on the bonnet. The SR20DE engine is as fitted to the Primera (P10), Primera (P11), Sunny GTI (N14), Almera GTI (N15). It is different from the SR20De and SR20DET (turbo) engines. Unfortunately this car was not sold in the UK L

Although based on the Sunny, it has alloy wheels, Targa roof (T-Top), up-rated/stiffened suspension, moulded seats, 4 speaker stereo, electric windows, electric mirrors, adjustable steering wheel and front fog lamps. It does not have air conditioning, ABS, electric aerial

90HP: I’ve had 121mph/195kmh (in Germany) 2 up plus luggage on the flat. This was with the K&N modification below. I ran out of road before I ran out of power. You should easily be able to reach 125mph, and possibly tweak 130mph downhill with the wind behind you etc etc. Only try this in Germany.

Rear parcel shelf clips – Ping. Next time you visit your Nissan main dealer, buy a couple of spares ones.

Rear shock absorbers – they can be VERY expensive (£200) Shop around, and you may find them for £65.

Fuel – Super unleaded (95 RON); super-plus (97 RON) is not necessary, but do give Shell’s Optimax a try – a few tankfuls and you should be pleasantly surprised. Unfortunately the 90HP carburettor version can be a bit thirsty if you use the throttle past the half-way point a lot.

Dim-dip unit – If you need it, it’s located down by the driver’s right leg (on the right hand drive UK model) behind the floor cloth.

Radio – If you’re changing the factory fitted Clarion model for something else you can get a connector kit from Lucas Automotive spares – it makes life easier. Note – there is no earth/ground lead, as the radio is earthed through the chassis. Don’t make the mistake of connecting the illumination lead to the earth on your new radio, as you’ll blow a fuse every time you switch the lights on

Aerial – The car has a regular antenna (which you can extend up whilst sat in the driving seat). It also has an ‘FM diversity’ antenna on the rear window, above the demister. The factory fitted radio (above) chooses from whichever antenna gives the best reception. The connection kit (above) just joins the two antennae together.

Electric windows – If your auto close/open switch looses its click there’s not much you can do about it, save buying a new switch module. However, it will continue to operate normally, despite the lost click.

Central locking – If your passenger door seems to lock and unlock itself as it feels like you will need to remove and clean the switch on the driver’s door. This involves removing the whole door lock (which in turn involves the removal of the interior door panel). A fiddly process, but I’ve done it a few times. There is also some room for adjustment on the locking bar (rod), where the two

HT leads – yes, they will rot. A snapped HT lead can be mended with half a safety pin and half a reel of insulation tape. Go and buy some decent ones, and don’t forget the king (5th) lead.

Distributor rotor arm – Changing this can be a good thing, but take a note of your chassis number and/or the exact part number stamped on your distributor, as a few different ones have been used.

Windscreen seal – If the black rubber surround to your windscreen splits then Loctite produce a black gooey compound for exactly this job.

If your fan stops working on speeds 1-3, but continues on 4, then you need a new fan motor resistance board (something like £10-15).

There is a connector about 2" wide at the bottom of the fan assembly – remove this (press the tab and pull down). Unscrew (PH#2) the two screws and withdraw the resistance board. One of the fusible links will have blown.

If your new board looks slightly different to the old one don’t worry – Nissan have changed the design slightly.

The 90HP carburettor engine has a common fault. Around 3000rpm the engine seems to suffer from ‘turbo-lag’ – i.e. a slight pause or dip in power. This is due to the Nissan engine design team bordering on the economical instead of performance side. This can be cured by new spark plugs, new HT leads and changing the air filter as follows

You will need a K&N RU-1480 @ £26.64 + VAT (or possibly an RU-1460/1470). Get this from your local K&N air filter stockist, who will probably have to order it in for you.

It is a round straight air filter, 180mm long, 102mm diameter, with a 70mm throat and a 10° bend.

This operates a vacuum switch that draws warmer air from off the exhaust manifold when the engine is cold.

Also remove the condensation collection box and its rubber supports from behind the battery – these are no longer needed.

(The mounting bracket onto which this box fitted makes an ideal support for a compressor for two-tone air horns)

Now take your car to your local service garage to have the mixtures set to work with the new increased airflow available.

You will need Phillips No.2 and No.3 screwdrivers. Your No.3 should have a blade of at least 9" You will also need a 10mm socket wrench.

There are lots of screws involved. Try not to get them mixed up. Where possible store them in the holes you have removed them from.

You can quite happily see the fan housing on the left – we wish to remove the whole thing, but part of the fascia is in the way, as well as a metal bar.

Remove the two connectors at the bottom of the motor (one goes to the motor resistance board mentioned above under Fan Motor)

Remove the three screws (PH#2) holding in the fan motor and carefully remove the motor. Put it somewhere safe.

Look up and under the dash – you can see the top screw (PH#3) for the fan housing. Remove it (carefully). This screw has a fine/machine thread; all the others you have removed are coarse threads (self-tapping).

You should now be able to remove the fan housing (still with the re-circulation control cable attached).

Examine the lever and its action. The control cable (wire) actuates an arm. This plastic arm has a simple spring, and also engages with a brass-coloured metal arm. Carefully prise the plastic arm out from the metal arm.

Examine the action of the metal arm – is it happy? The metal arm controls the flap inside the box and is attached by two screws. One or both of these screws may have fallen out. Replace them.

The flap should be fully open or fully closed. You may need to play with the sheath of the control cable if this is not the case.

** Thanks and god like appreciation go out to Bruce Stedman. for the help and guides and all the people over at 100nx. com ( sadly no longer there :( **

The NX was, loosely, an evolution of the Nissan Pulsar NX/Nissan EXA sold from 1987-1990, and it also replaced the Nissan Sentra hatchback.

The NX1600 was based on the standard 1.6L Sentra (engine code GA16DE), and the NX2000 was based on the 2.0 L SE-R model (engine code SR20DE). It was produced from 1991-1993 in the US (mainly competing with the Mazda MX-3 and Honda CR-X del Sol), before being replaced by the 200SX for 1995. Also, it was produced for a few more years in other countries.

The NX2000 model had some mechanical improvements over its SE-R sibling. It had larger brakes and more aggressive tires on wider 6" wheels (195/55VR-14 with 14x6" wheels vs. the 185/60HR-14 with 14x5.5" wheels and tires in the SE-R). The NX2000 brakes are a common aftermarket upgrade for B13 Sentra SE-Rs. The NX2000 also had a center armrest, a larger two core radiator, and slightly lower ride height compared to the SE-R. However, the T-top roof in the NX2000 along with the mechanical upgrades made it slightly heavier than the SE-R.

The NX2000, with its light weight, stiff chassis, and limited-slip differential, was considered one of the best-handling front-wheel-drive cars of the time. In 1992, Road & Track magazine included the NX2000 in a test of the world's best handling cars against such competition as the Acura NSX, Porsche 911, Nissan 300ZX, Mazda Miata, and Lotus Elan.

The 1.6 liter, made from 1990 to February of 1993 had a carburetor fitted which tended to consume excessive fuel as it aged. From April of 1993 onwards, the 100NX was sold with a more efficient fuel injected setup.

The 1.6 liter fuel injected version achieved 0-60 mph in 10.5 seconds and had a top speed of 121 mph.

The Nissan NX was also sold in the Japanese domestic market as the Nissan NX Coupe. Some models were fitted with T-Tops, whilst others were hardtop. The Japanese domestic NX Coupe's came with either a 1.5 DOHC carburetted engine (GA15(DS)), a 1.6 DOHC EFI engine (GA16(DE)), a 1.8 DOHC EFI engine (SR18(DE)) or the rare 2.0 DOHC EFI engine (SR20DE). The model was available in automatic or manual transmission. The 1.5 DOHC models were all fitted with digital speedometers, whilst all other engine versions had the standard analogue gage. All Japanese domestic models were fitted with electric windows, air conditioning, power steering, electric mirrors and central locking which locked the doors automatically at 18 km/h whilst driving. The car was different in the Japanese market in that it did not have an ECO option with the A/C system. Almost all Japanese cars have this option but the NX didn't.


Thanks for taking the time to read this guide. i hope it has helped. and maybe opened you eyes to this great little car. if so. please click

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